Bargaining Naughtiness

more wine

2005-03-22T23:14:00.000-08:00

Wine Tastings—and there are a lot of them

South Africa

South Africa has been producing wine for at least 400 years—throughout its European domination, but it is really only in the last 10 years that they have really made it onto the world stage. Obviously, the Cape wines have the largest audience in the UK, where it was a part of the British Empire for so long. South African wine, however, was off limits to the US during the apartheid boycott. It was not necessarily…

I know of no other entire country whose terroir so clearly dominates the taste of its wine. What it is sometimes called is “dung.” Really, this smell is right. Not to be confused with barnyard funk, the dung quality is ______

Microproducers

Cabernet

Rust en Vrede, Cabernet Sauvingon, 2000. $20. ME 91. the best way to describe this wine is to simply think of liquid portabella mushrooms. This wine is extremely distinct, black and lush. May not be for everyone—its extremely rich, velvety and offering little fruit. A mushroom bomb.

Vergelegen, Cabernet Sauvingon, 2001. $35. ME 88+ Way too early to say much about this wine. Tastes like a good Napa cab that is opened too young. Lots of acidity, tannins built to age. Hard to describe because its so obviously young. A very nice, bright cherry-purple red color (Riverside, Chattangooga).

Cathedral Cellars, Cabernet Sauvignon, 1999 (NR), $9 ME 70—not offensive or anything, just has zero play left in it. Two years past its prime, and that is a bad sign for cabernet quality. (Riverside, Chattanooga)

Rustenberg, Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000 (NR) ME 84, did I have a bad bottle? This cabernet just didn’t seem in line with the Rustebnerg line. It was supposed to be good.

KWV, 2000, Cabernet Sauvignon, $10. (WE 90), ME 90. Chocolate, minerals, spice, wonderful, great buy, I got a case, you should too. Has the stuff to hold for a good two more years. KWV is kind of like the Kendall Jackson of S. Africa, it’s a co-op which means a lot of variation in quality –12/04…tasted 5 times since with consistent results.

KWV, 2002, Cabernet Sauvignon, $10. Buy the 2000 or don’t buy this wine.

Thelema Mtn Vineyards, Cabernet Savignon, 1997, WS 91, ME 94. My first S. African red wine that I can remember—I don’t really remember details except it is one of the better wines I have ever come across.

Shiraz

Fairview, Cyril Back, Shiraz, 2000—ME 89 nice berries, S. African terroir mineralness, little kick of mint and spice on the after taste. Good grip, not one to lay down, but a great restaurant wine. A lot of high priced places I’ve been from Charleston to New York had reasonably priced bottles, while there other stuff was way over priced(Riverside, Chattanooga).

Thelema, Shiraz, 2001 $30. ME 93, WS 91 WE 87 Shows what true grit S. African Shiraz can possess. Shiraz in SA is a different beast than the lithe, graceful Rhone and the easily accessible Disneyworld of Barossa Valley AUS. Here, chocolate is the biggest flavor, as well as on the nose, tobacco, big cherry fruit, tight tannins, with a little kick of alcohol that warms it all up. Fantastic, should have bought a case (Curious Grape, Arlington, VA).

Fairview, Shiraz, 2001—ME-90 $14. A spice-driven wine with minerals and ripe fruit…(Curious Grape, Arlington, Virginia/Riverside, Chattanooga).

Spice Route, Syrah, 2000 $35. ME 84, A disappointment as this is Fairview’s flagship shiraz. Blueberry fruit dominates, supple, smooth, I found myself enjoying the Cyril Back much more (Riverside, Chattanooga).

Blends

Fairview, Goats du Roam, 2000/01, WS 88, ME 88. $11.00 Taste better than recent Cotes du Rhone from Jaboulet or Guigal. However, since the advent of wines like Guardian Peak SMG, I see no reason to be a cheapo Rhone ranger anymore. I would never choose any of these, nor a Cotes du Rhone over say Stump Jump.

Fairview, Goat Roti, 2001/02 WS 88/91 ME 88/90 $17. Charles Back decided to do a little take of on Cote Rotie. Is this merely a La Turque for seventeen dollars? Of course not. But that doesn’t keep this crème de casis dominated wine from being an extreme crowd pleaser. But one of the real benefits of this wine is not its resemblance to Cote Rotie, but the fact you can enjoy it now, instead of having to wait so long for that Cote Rotie to age.

Ruste en Vrede, Estate Blend (cab, merlot, shiraz), 2000. WS 91/WA 9? ME 95 Platter 5 stars. This Cabernet/Shiraz/Merlot blend is one of the best wines coming out of S. Africa. Platter 5 stars. Welcome to South African dung. Does that mean that this wine tastes like crap? Absolutely not. This is a delicious, complex, dark, brooding, expression of South African terrior. If you are dare I say sophistaced enough to like it, then this wine typifies the particular quality. Another way to describe South African terroir, is spice crossed with minerals. Dark, almost stewed fruit, dense without broaching jammy, espresso flavors dominate this high glycerol, wonderfully layered wine (Midtown Beverage, Nashville, TN).

Rust En Vrede, Estate Wine, 2001 WS 92, ME 86. Stewed black fruits best describe this wine, but its got a salty oddity not in line with 2000. I’d try and find the 2000 as these wines are not interchangeable.

Clos Malverne, Shiraz-Cab Blend, 2001. ME 80. average wine, not offensive, but played out if it ever had any life at all. (Riverside, Chattanooga)

Spain

Valsacro, Rioja, 2001 (200 cases made) WA 96, ME 97 $40 ($120). 200 cases made of this obscure charmer from the Ribero Del Duoro. Buy as much as you can of this top ten wines I have ever had in my life. Some idiot sold it to me for $40 a pop, and I saw it online for 250 bottles. Drink now through 2008, but best now. Buy this wine—as much as you possibly can. Smooth, silky, big fruit, long finish, one of the best wines I have ever tasted. (Curious Grape, Arlington, VA, Calvert and Woodley, Washington, DC, Grand Cru, Nashville $40, on the web as high as $250/btl.)

Chile

Introduction: In Chile, volume is king, whereas in Argentina craftsmanship predominates, though there are exceptions. Like most regions, many producers

Montes Alpha Cabernet Sauvignon, 2000—ME 83, WS 90 entirely undistinguished. A real disappointment. (World Market, ATL)

Argentina (Mendoza)

Argentina has the ability to make some stunning wines. Most of the focus on Argentina has been on Malbec, which is being cultivated as a single varietal. Traditionally Malbec has been used in places like France to enervate the fruit in Bordeaux. In particular, Wine Spectator has vaunted these universally well regarded wines to superstar value status. They were giving away 88-92 ratings like hotcakes and they made their point with a thud. That is no surprise because Wine Spectator tasters on the whole are oak driven, as are Argentinian Malbecs. Sometimes the oakiness of these wines is enough to make one cringe.

Catana Zapata, Alamos Malbec, 2003, $12 ME 70, WE 79—I always said you couldn’t make a bad malbec, and then there is the Alamos 2003. It is pure rotted plums, with aromas of a truck stop bathroom (Riverside Wine, Chattanooga)

Norton, Malbec, 2002. $10. WS 88/9, ME 85. Nice value, if you live in a state with a Harris Teeter, you are bound to have this. And enjoy it—its got nice red fruit up, up front and has medium acidity. Don’t expect a big finish and don’t expect complexity. (Grocery Stores nationwide).

Catena Zepata, Malbec, 2001—ME 82, WS 88—if you like eating, licking, or chewing oak trees this is the wine for you (Riverside, Chattanooga).

AUSTRALIA

After Robert Parker liberated Australia both good things and bad have happened. Some lament Parker, some praise him—what is certain is that in any area where subjective taste is involved, particularly.
--cabernet vs. shiraz, the beginnings of pinot, Grenache trends, D’arenberg and Penfolds.

D’arenberg. Stump Jump, 2002—WS 88, ME 90. $10. Adjusted for price—this Grenache, Mouvedere, Shiraz blend is best described as racy, raspberry fruit followed by a rich buttery compote driven aftertaste. This wine is so incredibly good. Buy lots (Worldmarket, Atlanta/winestores nationwide).

Wishing Tree, Shiraz, 2003 Barossa WS 89, ME 83. Typical Australian shiraz best buy, if you’ve had one you’ve had them all (Total Wine and Beverage, Manassas, VA).

Bleasdale, Shiraz, Langhorne Creek 2001, WA 91, ME 84 $14: aussie shiraz best buy. Boring. (Sams, Macon, GA)

Kay Brothers, Shiraz, 2001 $35. WA 9? ME 90. This wine simply has too much acidity to score anything higher than a 90. Yes it is a fruitbomb, but it has to have 5-10 more years to mellow out (Curious Grape, Arlington, VA).

D’Arenberg, The Dead Arm Shiraz, 2002, $75 WA 92+, WS 92, ME 95. This motor oil colored wine is a sweet fruit bomb that makes its way without going into Australian jam world.

D’Arenberg, High Trellis Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001 (Worldmarket, Atlanta)

D’Arenberg, Stump Jump Cabernet Sauvignon, 2002 (Worldmarket, Atlanta)

D’Arenberg, The Footbolt Shiraz, 2001(Worldmarket, Atlanta)

D’Arenberg, The Footbolt Shiraz, 2002. (Midtown, Nasvhille, TN)

Penfolds, Kanoonga Hill Cabernet Shiraz, 2002 (Worldmarket, Atlanta/grocery stores everywhere).

CALIFORNIA

Merlot

Teatown Cellars, Merlot, 2001 ME 93, WS 92 $20. Purely delicious. A freak of California merlot badness, this wine is a fruit bomb and an really has no comparison. It doesn’t taste like good merlot, it takes like great stuff that is unique. It may mellow with age, but I hope not. Buy as much as you can. (Calvert & Woodley, DC)

Provenance, Merlot, 2001, Carneros, CA. W&S 94 ME 92—this ain’t your grandfather’s merlot. No chocolate, not dry, no tobacco led pencil, etc. but what a wonderful wine, and a hell of a price. The thing that makes this thing so good is the fruit. Artificial strawberry and cherry dominate the flavor. Only difficulty was that the level of sulfites was so high, it stopped up my nose. Drink now. May hold over next two years, but buy lots and enjoy it now (Midtown, Nasvhille).

Cabernet

Shafer, Cabernet Savignon 2000, $40. WE 89, ME 91. What a beautiful wine, one of the prettiest shades of read I have ever seen in a wine. Good solid Napa Cab, almost like a barrel testing, because this stuff wont be ready for another 5-10 years(Vineville Beverage, Macon).

Shafer, Cabernet Savignon, 1999 (Vineville Beverage, Macon)

Shafer, Cabernet Savignon, 1995 (Vineville Beverage, Macon)

Syrah

Arcadian, Syrah, 2002, Napa, NR, ME 89 $11. An expression of the oddity of Cali syrah which seems to be dominated by blueberries. Very smooth, drinkable now through 2007, but after that I’d remain cautious. Excellent. (Riverside Wine, Chattanooga)

Blends/Other

Shafer, Firebreak, 2000. Sangiovese based blend that doesn’t taste like it (Total Wine & Beverage, Arlington, VA).

Atlas Peak, 2000, Sangiovese. $20. What a great value from this Teeter find. Better than 99% of chiantis that you can get anywhwere. (Harris Teeter, Pentagon City, VA)

Bogle Petit Syrah, 2002, $11.00 Me 85. Great value, concentrated blueberry fruit. (Vineville Beverage, Macon)

Sparkling

Domain Chandon, Carneros, Blanc de Noirs, NV, WE 86, WS 89, ME 86. $18. Great expression of Pinot, but it has this artificial strawberry funkiness on the finish. Great bubbles. (House of Paul Kuhn, most grocery stores)

Mumm, cuvee "M", Napa, NV, $15: ME 78, (WS 87?) I'm a big fan of Cordon Rouge, and Mumm's story as the comeback kid of all comeback kids in Champagne (the houses of champagne have had more houses bottom out than a season of "behind the music"). I thought, however, that this cheapo Mumm does not pass any kind of muster. Green is the color, green is the taste, green is what my faced turned when I drank it. Avoid, but drink CR, DVX, and Brut Prestige, Napa, all fine selections, though DVX is invariably overpriced. (Kroger, Macon)
CHAMPAGNE

Lanson—Black Label, NV, Champagne, Reims. WS 90, ME 85. smooth, but no buttered biscuits. Sad mouse. Perhaps I got a bad bottle because I remember this being better the last time I had it. (Frugal McDugals, Nashville, TN)

Deutz, Brut Classic, NV, WE 92, WS 89, ME 91. People who look to Veuve Cliquot for the ultimate in accessibility and smoothness haven’t tried this wonderful often cheap NV champagne. Buttered biscuits on the nose, dried apricots in the finish. Smooth as can be. My favorite NV champagne by a hair, Nicholas NV is my second favorite. (Frugal McDougal’s, Nasvhille, TN, Sherry-Lehman, NYC)

Nicholas Feuillate, Blancs de Blancs, NV, WE/WS 92. ME 90. what a mousse! It just lasts and lasts and lasts in the glass over time. Think caramel apples in a glass. Buy lots. (Riverside, Chattanooga)

Heidseck Monopole, Blue Top, NV, WS 88/9? ME 91. If crisp, clear, refreshing is what you look for in champagne, this is it. And what a value. (Curious Grape, Arlington, VA)

Moet, Cuvee Dom Perignon, 1996, Reims (WA 98), (WS 89), (ME 85). Robert Parker must have been drunk when he rated this wine. It is as undistinguished as a champagne as one can imagine—it wasn’t horrible, but come on. 98?

Veuve Cliquot, Yellow Label, NV, Reims, (WS 89/90). ME 87. This wine is good—I mean I would shout for joy if someone gave me a case, but it just doesn’t have the mousse of the others.

Mountadon, Brut, NV, WS 92, ME 82. If the taste of mold dominates your palate or you haven’t brushed your teeth in a while, then you will love this. Where did it come from? It makes me suspect there is a conspiracy between wine spectator and some random wineries.

Pol Roger, Brut, NV. WE/WS 89, if you can imagine key lime pie in a champagne this is it. Great stuff. Still prefer deutz, but it is a matter of taste.

Veuve Cliquot, La Grande Dame, 1990, WA 94, ME 93. The ultimate expression of finesse, charm, and refinement in champagne. One of the best I have ever had. If you want to impress the inexperienced and show them what fine champagne is all about and have 300 dollars in a restaurant, or 175 at a store then this is the way to do it. Anniversary material. Has 15 years left it in it.

Veuve Cliquot, La Grande Dame, 1995, WA 92, WS 93, ME 94. Imagine the 1990 as a teenager out of control, you will have this wonderful champagne. It has all of the breeding of a Grande Dame, but with fruit too as if it came from Pol Roger or Cordon Rouge.

Italy

Tuscany

San Fabiano Calcinaia, Chianti Classico Cellole Riserva, 2001 $95. (WE 93), ME 93+? It was a crime to drink this wine this young. It would be a real toss up between various Shafer Cabernets, 2000 and 1995 in particular, and this beauty in the making for the most beautiful wine I have ever seen. The tobacco on the nose, the coffee in the glass are perfect, the fruit is simply too green to enjoy. Try again in 10 years and this will prove itself a legend in the legion of horrible chianti stories. (Etrusco, Washington, DC)(thanksgiving, 04)

Dievole, Chianti Classico, 1999, 2000, 2001. $20. The 1999 is the best, followed by 2001, and the 2000. I first had this wine at the suggestion of a wine store manager in Durham, in 1997. If you are a Barossa freak, this is not for you. If you can appreciate terroir, then it is. It is earthy, rustic, gritty, then this is one of the better chiantis out there for you. I love the black fruit, dry not too dry, and gritty acidity. (summer 04)

Antonori, Toscana, 2001. $21. 86 (WS90) Polished, virtually no finish, or pizzaz for that matter. Still prally best wine you can get if you are in a kroger or some such place--if you are in a teeter, chances are you can get a decent maalbec for under $10. I think the only thing about this wine that attracted the other critics was that it has a certain small % syrah or cab or both, overcoming the dry, tart sangiovese. Antinori is a good producer, but only at the solia level with the occasional chianti that for whatever nature rises above standard. Tried thrice with consistent results.

Querciabella, Chianti Classico Riserva, 1995/96 non-Riserva

Piedmont

Masalino, Barolo, 1997, WE 96, ME 96. $130. This is everything a good Barolo should be. I really believe that good Barolo should be an impassioned Burgundy. Dark cherry, high alcohol, sweet polished fruit. High Alchohol that seems almost like a separate component that is designed to warm up the sumptuous fruit. Could hold up, but may become more refined with ten plus years of cellaring. Excellent. (Marco, GA)

Sicily

Planeta, Syrah, 1998, $115, NR, ME 93. It is so hard to describe this gem of a Sicilian Syrah. I guess the best I can do besides simply say this is one of the most intriguinig, surprising wines I have ever had. I will try to do the best I possibly can. Imagine if you can, a cherry coke icee in a wine. Delicious. Buy as much as you can. (Etrusco, Dupont Circle, DC)

France

Rhone

Northern Rhone

Paul Jaboulet Aine, St. Joseph, 1999. WE 91. ME? This bottle was literally screwed from the start because it had a bunch of sediment. It therefore tasted like a horrible pinnotage, which is almost a synonym (Depot, GA).

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, 1994

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Croze Hermitage, 94, 95, 96, etc present

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Parallel 45, Cotes Du Rhone,

M. Chapoutier Hermitage “Lasizeranne”, 1996

E. Guigal, Cote Rotie, 1994, A great Cote Rotie, the regular guigal Cote Rotie gets overlooked because of La Mouline and La Turque. It is significantly cheaper, and puts out the magic of Northern Rhone goodness. (New York)

M. Chapoutier St. Joseph

M. Chapoutier Crozes Hermitage

Southern Rhone

E. Guigal, Chataneuf du Pape, 2001, (WS 93), ME 91, $35. Wonderfully smooth Grenache based CDP—no brown or organge which in my opinion is the kiss of death. This is a wonderfully refreshingly priced one too. Now that Beaucastels are going for 400 dollars. Only ten years ago, this appellation never cracked the century mark. Not as good as the Louis Bernard, but quite distinguished. The best thing about this wine is its price, availability, and that you can drink it now.

Bordeaux

Graves

Bahans du Haut Brion 1995 garnet color, tobacco leaf, lead pencil

Marguax

Pomerol

Chateau Le Gay, 1995 $35
Lalande de Pomerol

Wine Ratings

2005-01-23T19:00:00.000-08:00

Wine Tastings

South Africa

Cabernet

1. Rust En Vrede, Cabernet, 2000, NR, ME 89-91. $20. Imagine portabella mushrooms in a glass. Black color, thick, wonderful, drink now through 2007. (World Market, CostPlus, ATL)

2. KWV, Cabernet, 2000, $10. (WE 90), ME 90. Chocolate, minerals, spice--wonderful, great buy. buy lots. Now thru 2006.

3. Vergelegen, Cabernet, 2001, $35. ME 86-88. A beautiful looking wine of bright purple quality. Reminded me of Frog Leap 2001, but with more aging potential. I think the overly acidic quality of this wine is due to its extreme youth.

4. Thelema Mtn. Vineyards, Cabernet, 1997. $30.

5. KWV, Cabernet, 2002. $10, WE 86, ME 84. Buy the 2000 or don't buy this wine.

6. Cathedral Cellars, 1999, Cabernet, (NR), ME 75, $9. Simply out of gas. avoid. (Riverside, Chattanooga)

Shiraz

1.
Fairview, "Cyril Back", Shiraz, 2001—ME 89 nice berries, S. African terroir mineralness, little kick of mint and spice on the after taste. Good grip, not one to lay down, but a great restaurant wine. A lot of high priced places I’ve been from Charleston to New York had reasonably priced bottles, while there other stuff was way over priced(Riverside, Chattanooga).

Thelema, Shiraz, Stellenbosch, 2001 $30. ME 93, WS 91 WE 87 Shows what true grit S. African Shiraz can possess. Shiraz in SA is a different beast than the lithe, graceful rhone and the easily accessible Disneyworld of Barossa Valley AUS. Here, chocolate is the biggest flavor, as well as on the nose, tobacco, big cherry fruit, tight tannins, with a little kick of alchohol that warms it all up. Fantastic, should have bought a case.

Spice Route, Syrah, 2000 $35.00 ME 84, A disappointment as this is Fairview’s flagship shiraz. Blueberry fruit dominates, supple, smooth, I found myself enjoying the Cyril Back much more (Riverside, Chattanooga).

Oracle Shiraz $9, WE 84. Disgusting. Urine smelling crap.

Beaumont, Shiraz, 2000 $ 15.

Fairview, The Beacon 2002, WE 88, WS 93, ME 91. If this were unfiltered, wow.

Blends

Fairview, Goats du Roam 2000/01, WS 88, ME 88. $11.00 Taste better than recent cotes du rhone from Jaboulet or Guigal. However, since the advent of wines like Guardian Peak SMG, I see no reason to be a cheapo Rhone ranger anymore. I would never choose any of these, nor a Cotes du Rhone over say Stump Jump.

Fairview, Goat Roti, 2001/02 WS 88/91 ME 88/90 $17.00 Charles Back decided to do a little take of on Cote Rotie. Is this merely a La Turque for seventeen dollars? Of course not. But one of the real benefits of this wine is not its resemblance to Cote Rotie, but the fact you can enjoy it now, instead of having to wait so long for that Cote Rotie to age.

Ruste en Vrede, Estate Blend (cab, merlot, shiraz), 2000. ME 95, Platter 5 stars. Welcome to South African dung. Does that mean that this wine tastes like crap? Absolutely not. This is a delicious, complex, dark, brooding, expression of South African terrior. If you are dare I say sophistaced enough to like it, then this wine typifies the particular quality. Another way to describe South African terroir, is spice crossed with minerals.

Clos Malverne, Shiraz-Cab Blend, 2001. ME 80. average wine, not offensive, but played out if it ever had any life at all. (Riverside, Chattanooga)

Spain

Valsacro, Rioja, 2001 (200 cases made) WA 96, ME 97. Buy as much as you can of this top ten wines I have ever had in my life. Some idiot sold it to me for $40 a pop, and I saw it online for 250 bottles. Drink now through 2008, but best now. Buy this wine—as much as you possibly can. Smooth, silky, big fruit, long finish, one of the best wines I have ever tasted. (Grand Cru, Nashville $40, on the web as high as $250/btl.)

Chile

Montes, Alpha, 2000, Cabernet—ME 83, WS 90 entirely undistinguished. A real disappointment. (World Market, Costplus, ATL)

Argentina (Mendoza)

Alamos, Malbec, 2003, $12.00 ME 70, WE 79—I always said you couldn’t make a bad malbec, and then there is the Alamos 2003. It is pure rotted plums, with aromas of a truck stop bathroom.

Norton, Malbec, 2002. $10. WS 88/9, ME 85. Nice value, if you live in a state with a Harris Teeter, you are bound to have this. And enjoy it.

Catena Zepata, Malbec, 2001—ME 82, WS 88—if you like eating, licking, or chewing oak trees this is the wine for you.

AUSTRALIA

D’arenberg, Stump Jump, Grenache, Mouvedere, Shiraz blend.. 2002—WS 88, ME 90. Adjusted for price—this ten dollar steal is a mouthful of round fruit, buttery, clingy, red fruits, up front, and a find. Buy lots.

Wishing Tree, Shiraz, 2003 Barossa WS 89, ME 83. Typical Australian shiraz best buy, if you’ve had one you’ve had them all.

Bleasdale, Shiraz, Langhorne Creek 2001, WA 91, ME 84: aussie shiraz best buy. Boring.

CALIFORNIA

Merlot

Teatown Cellars, Merlot, 2001 ME 93, WS 92 $20. Purely delicious. A freak of California merlot badness, this wine is a fruit bomb and an really has no comparison. It doesn’t taste like good merlot, it takes like great stuff that is unique. It may mellow with age, but I hope not. Buy as much as you can.

Provenance, Merlot, 2001, Carneros, CA. W&S 94 ME 92—this ain’t your grandfather’s merlot. No chocolate, not dry, no tobacco led pencil, etc. but what a wonderful wine, and a hell of a price. The thing that makes this thing so good is the fruit. Drink now. May hold over next two years, but buy lots and enjoy it now.

Cabernet

Shafer, Cabernet Savignon 2000, $40. WE 89, ME 91. What a beautiful wine, one of the prettiest shades of read I have ever seen in a wine. Good solid Napa Cab, almost like a barrel testing, because this stuff wont be ready for another 5-10 years.

Shafer, Cabernet Savignon, 1999

Shafer, Cabernet Savignon, 1995

Syrah

Arcadian, Syrah, 2002, somewhere in Napa, NR, ME 89. An expression of the oddity of Cali syrah which seems to be dominated by blueberries. Very smooth, drinkable now through 2007, but after that I’d remain cautious. Excellent.

Blends/Other

Shafer, Firebreak, 2000. $40. Sangiovese based blend

Atlas Peak, 2000, Sangiovese. $20.

Sparkling

Domain Chandon, Carneros, Blanc de Noirs, NV, WE 86, WS 89, ME 86. $18. Great expression of Pinot, but it has this artificial strawberry funkiness on the finish. Great bubbles.

Mumm, cuvee "M", Napa, NV, $15: ME 78, (WS 87?) I'm a big fan of Cordon Rouge, and Mumm's story as the comeback kid of all comeback kids in Champagne (the houses of champagne have had more houses bottom out than a season of "behind the music"). I thought, however, that this cheapo Mumm does not pass any kind of muster. Green is the color, green is the taste, green is what my faced turned when I drank it. Avoid, but drink CR, DVX, and Brut Prestige, Napa, all fine selections, though DVX is invariably overpriced.
CHAMPAGNE

Lanson, Black Label, NV, Champagne, Reims. WS 90, ME 85. smooth, but no buttered biscuits. Sad mouse. Perhaps I got a bad bottle because I remember this being better the last time I had it.

Deutz, Brut Classic, NV, WE 92, WS 89, ME 91. People who look to Veuve Cliquot for the ultimate in accessibility and smoothness haven’t tried this wonderful often cheap NV champagne. Buttered biscuits on the nose, dried apricots in the finish. Smooth as can be. My favorite NV champagne by a hair, Nicholas NV is my second favorite.

Nicholas Feuillate, Blancs de Blancs, NV, WE/WS 92. ME 90. what a mousse! It just lasts and lasts and lasts in the glass over time. Think caramel apples in a glass. Buy lots.

Heidseck Monopole, Blue Top, NV, (WS 88/9?) ME 91. If crisp, clear, refreshing is what you look for in champagne, this is it. And what a value.

Moet, Cuvee Dom Perignon, 1996, Reims (WA 98), (WS 89), (ME 85). Robert Parker must have been drunk when he rated this wine. It is as undistinguished as a champagne as one can imagine—it wasn’t horrible, but come on. 98?

Veuve Cliquot, Yellow Label, NV, Reims, (WS 89/90). ME 87. This wine is good—I mean I would shout for joy if someone gave me a case, but it just doesn’t have the mousse of the others.

Mountadon, Brut, NV, WS 92, ME 82. If the taste of mold dominates your palate or you haven’t brushed your teeth in a while, then you will love this. Where did it come from? It makes me suspect there is a conspiracy between wine spectator and some random wineries.

Pol Roger, Brut, NV. WE/WS 89, if you can imagine key lime pie in a champagne this is it. Great stuff. Still prefer deutz, but it is a matter of taste.

Veuve Cliquot, La Grande Dame, 1990, WA 94, ME 93. The ultimate expression of finesse, charm, and refinement in champagne. One of the best I have ever had. If you want to impress the inexperienced and show them what fine champagne is all about and have 300 dollars in a restaurant, or 175 at a store then this is the way to do it. Anniversary material. Has 15 years left it in it.

Veuve Cliquot, La Grande Dame, 1995, WA 92, WS 93, ME 96. Imagine the 1990 as a teenager out of control, you will have this wonderful champagne. It has all of the breeding of a Grande Dame, but with fruit too as if it came from Pol Roger or Cordon Rouge.

Italy
Tuscany

San Fabiano Calcinaia, Chianti Classico Cellole Riserva, 2001 $95. (WE 93), ME 93+? It was a crime to drink this wine this young. It would be a real toss up between various Shafer Cabernets, 2000 and 1995 in particular, and this beauty in the making for the most beautiful wine I have ever seen. The tobacco on the nose, the coffee in the glass are perfect, the fruit is simply too green to enjoy. Try again in 10 years and this will prove itself a legend in the legion of horrible chianti stories. (Etrusco, Washington, DC)

Dievole, Chianti Classico, 1999, 2000, 2001. $20. The 1999 is the best, followed by 2001, and the 2000. I first had this wine at the suggestion of a wine store manager in Durham, in 1997. If you are a Barossa freak, this is not for you. If you can appreciate terroir, then it is. It is earthy, rustic, gritty, then this is one of the better chiantis out there for you. I love the black fruit, dry not too dry, and gritty acidity.

Antonori, Toscana, 2001. $21. 86 (WS90) Polished, virtually no finish, or pizzaz for that matter. Still prally best wine you can get if you are in a kroger or some such place--if you are in a teeter, chances are you can get a decent maalbec for under $10. I think the only thing about this wine that attracted the other critics was that it has a certain small % syrah or cab or both, overcoming the dry, tart sangiovese. Antinori is a good producer, but only at the solia level with the occasional chianti that for whatever nature rises above standard.

Le Volte, 2000.

Lucente, IGT, Super Tuscan, 2000.

Piedmont

Masalino, Barolo, 1997, (WE 96), ME 96. $130. This is everything a good Barolo should be. I really believe that good Barolo should be an impassioned Burgundy. Dark cherry, high alcohol, sweet polished fruit. High Alchohol that seems almost like a separate component that is designed to warm up the sumptuous fruit. Could hold up, but may become more refined with ten plus years of cellaring. Excellent. (Marco, GA)

Massolino, Barolo, 2000, WS 94, ME 95, $60. Excellent.

Sicily

Planeta, Syrah, 1998, $115, NR, ME 93. It is so hard to describe this gem of a Sicilian Syrah. I guess the best I can do besides simply say this is one of the most intriguinig, surprising wines I have ever had. I will try to do the best I possibly can. Imagine if you can, a cherry coke icee in a wine. Delicious. Buy as much as you can. (Etrusco, Dupont Circle, DC)

France

Rhone

Northern Rhone
Paul Jaboulet Aine, St. Joseph, 1999. WE 91. ME? $20. This bottle was literally screwed from the start because it had a bunch of sediment. It therefore tasted like a horrible pinnotage, which is almost a synonym (Depot, GA).

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Hermitage, 1994

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Croze Hermitage, 94, 95, 96, etc present

Paul Jaboulet Aine, Parallel 45, Cotes Du Rhone,

M. Chapoutier

E. Guigal, Cote Rotie, 1994, A great Cote Rotie, the regular guigal Cote Rotie gets overlooked because of La Mouline and La Turque. It is significantly cheaper, and puts out the magic of Northern Rhone goodness. (New York)

M. Chapoutier

Southern Rhone
Guigal, Chataneuf du Pape, 2001, (WS 93), ME 91, $35. Wonderfully smooth Grenache based CDP—no brown or organge which in my opinion is the kiss of death. This is a wonderfully refreshingly priced one too. Now that Beaucastels are going for 400 dollars. Only ten years ago, this appellation never cracked the century mark. Not as good as the Louis Bernard, but quite distinguished. The best thing about this wine is its price, availability, and that you can drink it now.

Bordeaux

Graves

Marguax

1997 Chateau Dauzac

2000 Chateau Brane Cantenac

Pomerol

1995 Petrus

1995 Le Gay

Lalande de Pomerol

20 things I learned in the 1st Semester in Law School

2004-12-26T04:34:00.000-08:00

Most important lessons I learned in law school:

The Law
1. If you are fox hunting in a wasteland, try and get actual, corporal possession of the fox because mere pursuit is not enough.

2. Eating people if you are shipwrecked is ok so long as you really,really need to.

3. There is a freak tent of contract law where unilateral contracts goto hang out and plan shady crossings of the Brooklyn Bridge.

4. A promise can be naked at times, but this doesn't mean we shouldn't look at it.

5. Corbin wears the pants in any relationship.

6. If your goal is to make it to any criminal law casebook, try drinking at least a pint of gin at 7:00am, get four or five people in a similar state, and pass out knives amongst yourselves.

7. Its ok to sexually harass a woman so long as you do it in a way that you cannot reach across a counter "to fix her clock."

8. If you are going to bring a suit in tort, sue a railroad. Similarly, fireworks and railroads do not mix.

9. If you are a (male) tramp, and someone offers to buy you a coat if you'll just walk around the corner to a shop, don't count on them buying you a coat.

1o. Words don't really mean anything.

11. Know where your wagon is headed when you order flower.

12. If you are a justice on a state supreme court, its ok to quote from the movie Ghostbusters in your opinion.

13. If it weren't for pocket parts, law librarians would be out on the street.

14. If it didn't really happen, its ok to say it happened...constructively.

15. Consider naming you biscuit company Mutual Biscuit.

16. If something doesn't feel right, give it the Learned Hand Test.

17. Make a lawyer's day and leave your estate in fee tail.

18. Blackacre really gets handed around a lot. Maybe someone should just keep it for a while and see if it works out before giving it to A.

19. A good synonym for intestate is "died without a will".

20. My favorite judicial opinion in part:

"***and there is no evidence of pointing out to the grantees\in said three deeds aforesaid, including defendant's deed, of anyspecific property, other than the property of defendants, described in their deed, and in Paragraph Four (4) of the complaint and therein; nor of any immediate act of the grantees incluidng defendants in said three deeds, aforesaid, of taking possession of any property other than described in said three deeds aforesaid; and the testimony of husbadnd defendant was unequivocally that he had no intention of possession or holding anything other than what the deed called for; and that there is no showing of any coninuous possession by defendants or their immediate predecessors in interesst, since the evidence indicates the property was in the nature, for use, as a summer ocupancy, and use was for rather limited periods of time during comparatively short portions to the year, and was far from continuous...."

Exams
1. "If you write something that is so woefully horribly bad on the\exam, you will not get credit."

2. "Students often ask me how much credit will I get if I write my\answer in outline form... None."

Life in General from professors

1. "Stop living in the past."

2. "You can make meth using lots of sudafed"

3. "Can you really say a hurricane is tortious?"--Johnson on the\intersection of Torts and current trends in the weather.

4. Prof Salzman will not go with me to any Tesla concerts.

5. "Yes....well, no actually...but yes...maybe...well, no...but yes"

6. "Everything is beautiful in its own way."

Happy Christmas and Happy New Year to All

2004-12-14T21:23:00.000-08:00

Welcome to Bargaining Naughtiness, The only blog on the internet with a name based on procedural unconsionability.